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One Day in Prague
In today’s world, the word “bohemian” conjures exotic images of the alternative or unconventional. Prague, the once ancient capital of Bohemia and current capital of the Czech Republic, presents itself as the keeper of this tradition. A city virtually untouched by war, Prague has a history of over 800 years and remains to this day a “preserved jewel.”
During my first visit to this stunning city, I realized that just walking her streets was like visiting a museum. Like the Grand Canyon, tourists can see the layers of time in the varied architecture that includes Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance—sometimes on the same block! Only a few contemporary buildings muddy the mix. Newness, even renovation, is discouraged.
I was in Prague for a theater festival that allowed me only one day to take in the city’s grandeur. I needed to prioritize. The City Center (which includes Old Town, New Town, and Mala Strana) is only a 2-mile radius, which makes it easy to walk this dense city.
National Theater.
Walk the Royal Way
With some on-line research, I found a walking route that promised to take me through almost all of the important sights in Prague. They call it the Royal Way.
This was the route the kings of Bohemia took for their coronation parade. I put on my walking shoes and took the B-train to the starting point – Republic Square, or Namasti Republik in Czech. The city’s metro system is extremely simple—with only 3 lines that run through the city center, it’s hard to get lost.
Prague’s gothic Powder Tower is the gateway to the Royal Way and, long ago, was the entryway into this medieval town. After walking under the grand arch, I followed the route down cobblestone roads, past shops filled with Bohemian crystal, through the spacious Old Town Square and the famed 15th century astronomical clock with its dancing Apostle statues.
To my delight and great luck, a “gourmet festival” had taken over the center of Old Town Square with vendors selling local gourmet sausages, meats, wine, spices, and, of course, beer. I allowed myself to get sidetracked sampling all of the gourmet offerings that Prague had to share.
From here I got a bit lost in the narrow maze of streets that lead to the Charles Bridge. I finally stumbled upon the entrance to the bridge, another gothic archway. Many of the guidebooks suggest that one should not walk the Charles Bridge at midday, but if you can handle a few extra tourists, this is a great time to scope out souvenirs.
Vendors sell anything from refrigerator magnets to hand-made jewelry to a cartoon drawing of you. Between the statues lining the bridge, the vendors, and the tourists, there is much to see on this famous structure.
A summertime view of the Vltara River in Prague.
Mala Strana—Lesser Town
On the other side of the Vltava River, I found myself in what I’ve decided is my favorite part of Prague—“Lesser Town” or, more beautifully said in Czech, Mala Strana. While looking at maps before I got here, I assumed that this side of the bridge would be a bit detached from the center of Prague, but with its quiet lovely streets and cute shops and cafes, Mala Strana is peaceful and authentic.
One whimsical piece of artwork I enjoyed perusing in the shops was the antique marionette. While these shops have some affordable smaller puppets to bring home to your loved ones, the old antique puppets are far more ornate and imaginative.
An intimidating gargoyle peers down from Castle Prague.
I was also surprised to see an ice cream shop with a green ice cream cone above the door. I saw half a dozen college kids enjoying this stuff, then I realized—this was Absinthe Ice cream! Known as the “green fairy” or “green muse” to artists, poets, and musicians, this infamous spirit originated in Switzerland, but is forever associated with Bohemia. It’s no wonder Prague’s Mala Strana was famously popular amongst creative geniuses of the past!
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The gothic Powder Tower was once the entryway into this medieval town.
The Old Town Astronomical Clock Tower.
I chose to skip the “ice cream” cone and instead climbed the steps to the castle. The castle sits on a hill above the city, regally looking down on her inhabitants. The castle grounds are worth wandering, especially for the gardens that surrounded its walls. I could fully enjoy my senses up here.
The lovely smell of flowers and the sound of silence—cars are not allowed on many streets in Prague—were rejuvenating. Four hours after my start, I finished walking the Royal Way. I meandered the entire way, so one could walk the same path and still have plenty of time to see other parts of the city.
Museum of Miniatures
As long as I was up here, I decided to go to the Museum of Miniatures. This museum was quite unusual. First of all, the museum itself was tiny, just two rooms. But the displays were so miniscule, I had to wonder what would inspire someone to work in this medium.
The displays could only be seen through a microscope’s lens and often were displayed in relation to a piece of human hair or an insect wing. My favorite “exhibit” was the flea that carried a golden horseshoe, a pair of scissors, a key, and a comb. I was astounded; I can’t find the fleas that attack my own dog let alone create a comb to fit into a flea’s hand. While this was a little strange, I still found it fun and fascinating.
The Terrace at Bellavista
At this point in my day, I was ready for a break. This was my “vacation” after all. I turned the corner to walk downhill and happened upon an extraordinary view of the city with its red roofs, river, and even the gothic Powder Tower in the background. Then I noticed a restaurant designed to frame this view—The Terrace at Bellavista.
It sits at the top of Petrin Hill at the edge of the Strahov Monastery and has the best view in all of Prague. They serve Italian food and old-fashioned cocktails, a welcomed variance from the Czech norm of dumplings, pork, and beer. I sat myself at one of their tables to rest my legs, take in the view, and enjoy a plate of refreshing pasta and one of my favorite drinks—a kir royale (crème de cassis with champagne). Divine Decadence!
The End of My Day
To finish off your day in Prague, you should consider taking in an opera or a ballet–a traditional mainstay of Prague. Contemporary dance and experimental theatre can also be found in many smaller venues within the city. And if you want to witness the true Bohemian spirit that remains in this old Bohemian city —find a dance club in Old Town where the youth party until dawn. La Vie Boheme!
Alicia Peterson Baskel is Artistic
Director/Choreographer of Wallpaper Performance
Company. See AliciaBaskel.com for more information. |